Our first weekend trip of the year was to Lagangarbh Hut, Glen Coe, and it didn't disappoint. Lucky with the weather for the second week in a row, this was a well-attended and active meet, encompassing a variety of walking and climbing routes, a swim in a loch and more.
This trip report covers just some of what we got up to that weekend: Aonach Eagach, Buachaille Etive Mor, climbing at Rannoch Wall and Glen Nevis, and a few traditional DURC mountain hut games...
Walking - Aonach Eagach: Saturday 22nd September 2012
Ok, I admit it. In the past I have being guilty of saying that Glen Coe is overrated. But this weekend really proved me wrong in the most spectacular fashion.
Lagangarbh Hut, located right at the foot of Buachaille Etive Mor, offered some spectacular views without going beyond a stone's throw of the hut. But to not go beyond a stone's throw of the hut on a weekend with such perfect weather would be criminal.
We were spoilt for choice in terms of how to spend our day. The aforementioned Buchaille Etive Mor, Rannoch Wall and the Three Sisters (Aonach Dubh, Gearr Aonach and Beinn Fhada) were some of the plans for the day. Teresa, Heather, Caren, Elena and I decided to tackle Aonach Eagach - a classic ridge scramble taking in 2 tops and 2 Munros.
After a short walk off the A82 road, it was completely uphill for just over an hour to get up on to the ridge itself. Interspersed with some minor scrambly bits, in the blazing sun it gave an overly warm warm-up for the day ahead.
By the top, we had all shed a few layers and applied a layer of sun-cream. The fine ridge was now fully visible extending west further than the eye could see.
The first section of proper scrambling we came to was quite a steep descent for around 10m. Mostly composed of smooth steep angled slabs, I personally think this was probably the toughest section on the whole ridge. A slip would give quite a long fall. In fact, it was the descents along the whole ridge which proved to be the most difficult sections.
Although slightly damp in some places, the ridge itself was mostly dry. But in fully wet conditions, it is easy to see how serious some of the sections would be - especially considering the exposure.
Before coming onto the ridge I was told how the scrambling wasn't technical but the exposure was something to look out for. I can confirm this is true. As someone who is not much of a climber, I found that for pretty much all of the ridge, I was able to find reasonable hand and feet holds and generally feel secured on to the rock. The exposure certainly was serious in places, but I didn't find it off-putting (probably due to not looking down too much!).
The weather was perfect throughout the day (and indeed all weekend). When we reached the second Munro of the ridge, Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, we were treated to some spectacular views: the Mamores, Loch Leven and a slightly snowy Ben Nevis to name but a few.
All in all, this was a fantastic ridge walk. Nothing too technical, some great views and a wee bit of exposure to keep you on your toes. But it is very easy to see how this would be a significant challenge in strong wind and rain. In winter even more so - with a grade II rating.
After a stop off in the pub on the way back, we arrived back at the hut at around 7:45pm. It seemed everyone had a good day on their chosen routes and were ready for dinner followed by the DURC traditional fun and games. None of the group had been to this hut before and we were pleasantly surprised by its quality (flushing toilet and a shower!).
A good time was had by all and we will surely be visiting this hut again. The fine conditions made everything that more enjoyable (and changed my opinion of Glen Coe) but with perfect weather on both the first meets so far this year, could it possibly continue for a 3rd week?
| Written by: | Brett Gregory |
| Photos: | Caren Kresse |
Walking - Buachaille Etive Mor: Saturday 22nd September 2012
Nikki and Jim chose the relatively straightforward route of Buachaille Etive Mor, a 4.5 mile ridge walk with two Munros at each end: Stob Dearg and Stob na Broige.
We quickly found that much of the initial route was a little icy, the product of an overnight frost and an ascent corrie still in shadow. It inspired a bit of caution, but still it wasn't too long before we reached the top of Coire na Tulaich, and were able to start enjoying the views afforded by the iconic Stob Dearg.
Crossing the ridge involved a leisurely plod up Stob na Doire, a steep drop to Stob Coire Altruim then an easy-going rise to the final Munro, Stob na Broige.
From here we backtracked to the descent route to Lairig Cartain at the corrie. Despite Jim getting held up at the lower slabs, we were back at the hut in reasonable time and got the communal meal started, a spaghetti bolognese that could've been better but which was nonetheless eaten without too much protest!
It was a memorable day in great weather, and for Jim fulfilled an ambition of getting a decent view from Stob Dearg.
| Words & photos: | James Simpkins |
Climbing - Saturday 22nd September 2012
After an unexpectedly long night of fun and games going on till the early hours of the morning, the climbers (Calum, Jason, Michael, Steve and Guy) decided to make the most of the spectacular Lagangarbh hut's location and set some routes on Rannoch Wall as our objective.
We woke up to a chilly September frost but quickly warmed up on the approach to Curved Ridge (mod).
The ridge by itself would make a fantastic day out on its own, giving superb exposed scrambling on good holds and sound rock that weaves a path up the steep eastern flanks of Buachaille Etive Mor. However, our objective was Rannoch wall, so we veered off the ridge into Easy Gully before the final steep bit.
Steve and Michael swiftly decided upon January Jigsaw (Severe) as their route for the day, whilst Calum, Jason and Guy tried to find the start of the ultra-classic Agag’s Groove (V Diff). Two Perth based climbers kindly showed us the start of the route, and we let them go on ahead as to not slow them down!
The route’s ‘ultra classic’ status is well deserved; giving superbly positioned easy, well protected climbing up the steep barrier of Rannoch Wall. The crux 3rd pitch in particular leads you up some improbably steep terrain for the grade. I decided to spice the route up a bit by climbing the final pitch of Satan’s Slit (VS 4c) which gave some brilliant bold climbing up the final steep 30 metres of Rannoch Wall.
Having finish a bit early we decided to top the day off with a bit of hill running from the summit of Stob Dearg, along the ridge to Stob na Broige, then back track towards Coire na Tulaich and the hut.
Started at 8am, finished at 8pm – a great day of scrambling, climbing and running!
Climbing - Sunday 23rd September 2012
After our big mountain day out on Saturday, we decided to have a relaxed day of cragging at Polldubh, Glen Nevis. Me, Guy and Steve were also joined by Owen after his chilly day out on the Ben on Saturday.
After a slightly later than expected start, between us we bagged a few of the Polldubh classics including, Tear (HS), Pinewall (HS), The Gutter (Diff), Resurrection (VS 4c), Damnation (VS 4c) and Right Wall (V Diff).
Highlights include:
- A hanging belay on the strenuous Resurrection and dropping karabiners on Guy’s head from said hanging belay.
- Guy spending 15 minutes on the crux of Damnation trying to remove a nut that was actually in-situ.
- Pine Wall in a style of semi-simul climbing because our rope was too short.
| Written by: | Calum McBain |
| Photos: | Guy Templeton |
Hut Games - Friday and Saturday
Over years of weekend meets at mountain huts, the club has evolved a number of traditional games and activities that are particularly suited to walkers and climbers unwinding - perhaps with a drink or two - at the end of a long day.
These games are an excellent opportunity to break the ice, show off your athletic prowess, and get yourself photographed in compromising positions.
The cereal packet game involves picking up a small packet with your teeth, without touching the floor or other support. Each round, another inch is torn off the packet, until it's simply a flat strip of cardboard.
For those finding it too easy, a one-legged variant awaits.
There are others, "people traversing" being the most notorious, but suffice it to say if you still have energy left at the start of a Saturday night you may not at the end of it!
Want to get involved? Come along to Clarks on Lindsay Street on a Wednesday night and get to know more about us and the club!
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